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Mike Walsh's Finland Blog - Tuesday, May 02, 2006
- irregular pieces on life in Finland -
 
 Tuesday, May 02, 2006

This was first "broadcast" in the other blog in February 2005. It's still valid so here it is again - hopefully for a wider audience than the SharePoint people who used to frequent my old blog (which was mainly that).

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In the nineties there were quite a few large "mergers" (really one company took over the other, but we're nice up here) between fair sized Swedish and Finnish companies.

While people outside Northern Europe may see Swedes, Norwegians, Danes and Finns as all the same (which they consistently do in reporting on the nationalities of football players in English clubs  [2006 addition: where they often just say the first Nordic nationality that comes to mind]) in fact there are a lot of differences between them.

So when these mergers happened there was an awareness of these differences perhaps for the first time. So much so that Finnish TVs educational unit made a series of half-hour episodes on those differences using a mass on on camera interviews mostly with people involved in a couple of those large mergers - Nordbanken (Sweden) and Merita (Finland) now Nordea (a large commercial bank) and Tieto (Finland) and Enator (Sweden) now TietoEnator (the largest Nordic IT company).

I didn't see it then but looking for something to fill my new DVD hard disk recorder (!) I saw that there was a night repeat of all six episodes in one night and set the recorder going.

I've now watched it and most of it wasn't a surprise (I've worked in Sweden several years; had a Swedish wife for longer [my present wife is Finnish] and speak Swedish) but still interesting for that. [The program had Swedish subtitles for the Finnish speakers and Finnish subtitles for the Swedish speakers but I consciously read neither]

The main conclusion was that the Swedes discuss a lot before making any decision whereas the Finns make a decision and the staff carry it out.

That's the black and white version of course but on average it's true enough. In Sweden everybody is supposed to give their opinion on anything before there's eventually a summing-up and a decision which is usually put out in the form of a recommendation rather than an order. Swedes understand that this is the same thing but no other nationality faced with a Swedish "recommendation" has any idea that it is anything but a suggestion.

The Swedes are often compared to the Japanese who also have a long discussion process before coming to a decision but in fact whereas in Japan (I'm told) everyone there then loyally supports the decision even if they are against it, in Sweden people seem to just ignore decisions if they were against it during the discussion period.

The program also made clear another similarity between Swedes and Japanese, namely a desire not to offend leading to never saying right out that they objected to something the other side was saying but phrasing a No in nice-sounding words and (according to other Swedes in the programs) saying No instead in body language (that only other Swedes understood). The Finns (like the people from Hamburg in Germany to the occasional horror of people from further south of that country) say right out if they object to something. No confusion there !

This goes for the results of meetings. A Finn will often go away from a meeting with Swedes thinking that everything has been agreed only for the next meeting to start again almost as if the previous meeting hadn't taken place. It's those Swedes again saying in words that they are happy with the decision but in body language saying they aren't or alternatively they were taking up their "right" to bring up new points even after a decision supposedly (and clearly in the Finns minds) has been reached.

Another thing that struck me in these mergers was that the Swedes in both cases seemed to take it for granted that the working language in meetings would be Swedish rather than the usual Nordic compromise when Finns or Danes are involved of English.

Swedes by and large seem to assume that Finns speak Swedish (we've had people arriving at seminars here from Sweden intending to speak Swedish and being shouted down when they try) and yet it seemed that even when they found out that this wasn't true (at least as far as *fluent* Swedish goes) they still carried on holding the joint meetings in Swedish (and seemed to have - from the interviews - the feeling that they were being kind by speaking Swedish rather slower than usual!)

It was also interesting to hear that a Swedish leader is regarded as one of a group when at work whereas in Finland there is a stricter hierarchy (which I continue to ignore - I've worked in Sweden too long!), yet in the evening when people were out in their free time there were no differences in "rank" between the Finnish boss and his people but still a distance between the Swedish boss and his "group members". Curious.

Finally, the final program was a bit different from the other programs in the series because it was about the etiquette of formal meals in Sweden and in particular how to drink snaps and say skål. Sweden is supposed to be an easy going, egalitarian country and yet they have these really sterile official dinners based on 18th Century (?) dinners among the nobility.

Now this I have experienced. When I worked in Sweden (for SKF) we had some foreign visitors from other SKF European companies and the people in the group were all invited to an evening at SKF's official "guest house" most of which was spent sitting at a large dining table with uniformed waitresses and a very, very organised set of things to do at every stage - including a vast series of organised snaps drinking and snaps songs singing. My main memory of that evening is that I had missed out (on purpose) on several snaps rounds and wanted a second glass of red wine instead. My empty glass was ignored every time the waitress came past and when I finally asked, she was in semi-shock and said that the official time for the second glass of wine wasn't until XXXX and so I'd have to wait till then. In Finland the wine bottles would be open on the table for anyone to grab ...

There was a lot more of course, but I'd better leave out the bit about the Swedes in the programs sounding often condescending and the Finns being more thoughtful in their replies in case I ever want a job in Sweden again.

5/2/2006 10:40:36 AM (FLE Standard Time, UTC+02:00)  #    Comments [0]   Finland  | 

Sometimes it's useful to move from one blog system to another.

I've just visited my parents in England and rather than write a new piece about the things that struck me that were vastly different to Finland, all I have to do is re-cycle last year's piece.

The only difference is that we left from a different terminal where there was only a rather terrible standard W.H.Smith with more concentration on sweets and magazines than on books. This was the British Airways terminal (although we were flying Finnair, they have a code sharing agreement with BA) and was definately down market compared to the terminal for foreign airlines we used (SAS) last year.

But, apart from that, the same things apply as last year, so here's that piece again.  (This year's potboilers [luckily bought earlier when I saw them] were Colossus, decline of the US empire; Natasha's Dance - a Cultural History of Russia; and a book on Napoleon's 1812 advance on (and retreat from) Moscow)

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You can tell you've been away a long time when you start noticing odd things about the place of your birth.

I suppose one thing I always have noticed is that nothing much seems to change between one visit and the next. Certainly where my parents live there is no innovative architecture in use when new buildings are put up, just more and more of the same boring old stuff and old red bricks.

Even if you might not like some of the new Finnish architecture at first, it IS often new and different and does tend to grow on you and these days usually fits in to the location.  (There is one glaring exception which is the Alvar Aalto designed Enso (now StoraEnso) headquarters on the sea front at Helsinki harbour which single-handedly destroys the view as you arrive by ship. I don't think even a famous architect would get away with that kind of thing these days).

The other thing I noticed on a recent visit was the constant "Buy One get one Free" and the like everywhere. Not, you understand, that I didn't take advantage when I wanted to buy one of those things anyway, but still.

However the couple of examples I'll mention now really did make me wonder if the world had gone mad.

I bought a copy of a particular daily newspaper because my wife wanted the free DVD it contained (of a film of Alice In Wonderland). When I went to pay for it, I was asked if I'd like a free Mars bar with it. I looked at him .... "We've had an offer all week that if you buy this paper you get a free Mars bar". OK. Why not. (Value - More than half the cost of the paper which remember I bought only because my wife thought the DVD was worth more than the newspaper cost.).

[2006 Note: Now it was buy a magazine and get a (large) block of chocolate for half-price]

Mind you next day was even crazier. I was in another branch of the same chain and bought a magazine. "Would you like to buy an Independent (another daily newspaper) and save 40p (70 cents)?" Suspicious as always I asked how much the Independent cost. "No, sorry I wasn't clear. If you buy an Independent (cost 60p/1:05) you get one pound off the cost of your magazine".

So I ended up with a magazine (full price minus 40p/70c) and a free Independent newspaper. If I'd left without the newspaper the magazine would have cost me more.

Typical I suppose for that part of the country, I then asked if there was anything stopping me dumping the newspaper once I'd left the shop. "I don't care, you can use it to line your budgie cage if you want". At which point the woman in the queue behind me - who'd obviously been following this conversation - said "now you'll have to go and buy a budgie".

I suppose I should really finish there, but once at the airport for the flight back I wanted to buy the new Donna Leon book.

[2006 Note: it grieved me that my wife had this year to pay full price for the latest Donna Leon]

One bookshop had "Buy one; pay half-price for the second" whereas the other had "Two for Three".

Now here's where arithmetic comes in... As the Donna Leon book (a small paperback) was likely to be cheaper than any other book(s) I bought, I should have bought it from the first bookshop and got 50% of the price of the second more expensive book. As it was, I bought it from the second bookshop along with two other (more expensive) books (and thus got the Donna Leon book - as the cheapest - free).

A question for readers. Why ?

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Answer:

Because you can't buy what they don't have. The Donna Leon book was included in the poster advertising the 1 plus 1/2 offer but it was sold out.

In the second story I grabbed the last copy.

Popular book that.

Anyway once that's finished (or grabbed by my wife as it's actually hers ...) I'll be moving on to lighter stuff than crime in Venice. Gulag by Anne Applebaum and Stalin - The Court of the Red Tsar - by Simon Sebag Montefiore. Potboilers.

5/2/2006 10:29:18 AM (FLE Standard Time, UTC+02:00)  #    Comments [3]   Finland  | 
 Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Twice a year all Finnish drivers have to change their tyres (US: tires). For four months of the year (and optionally for the months of November and April) you have to have winter tyres on your car - which usually means tyres with spikes on them to cut through the snow to the ice below.

Even outside these months you are allowed to drive with snow tyres if there is a risk of ice, so as we even in Southern Finland have still been experiencing minus degrees in the morning, most people have been putting off the change just in case.

Well I'm going on holiday for a few days and leaving the car at the airport so I decided over the weekend that I'd change my tyres on Monday just in case it was really hot when I got back (and the police might be wondering why I was still driving with winter tyres). So I packed the summer tyres in the car on Sunday and left promptly on Monday to go to the tyre place where you don't have to pre-book.

Last time I was (at the same time of the day) behind one car in the queue for two fitting places and I was in and out in about 20 minutes.

This time however both the main Helsinki newspapers had - it turned out - informed their readers in prominent locations in the paper that now was the time to change your tyres.

Just like when they review (in a Saturday edition) some garden centre or similar that has been around for years and suddenly crowds descend on it, this meant that suddenly the entire population decided to change their tyres. Or at least it seemed so.

All I know is that instead of one car and twenty minutes tops, this time it was something like 12 cars and something over 2 hours.

Mind you, today is probably going to be worse. Most people would have read that article when they were at work and a long way from their summer tyres.



4/26/2006 8:27:20 AM (FLE Standard Time, UTC+02:00)  #    Comments [0]   Finland  | 
 Saturday, April 22, 2006

(First posted in September 2005. The nightmare is now, thankfully, over and we had a working bathroom back in the six weeks promised. The underfloor heating [the only difference to what we had before] turns out to be a disappointment as - in order for it to not cost a fortune - it has to be turned down so much you hardly know it's on.)

Starting in a couple of weeks we will be putting up with having no bathroom for six weeks while workmen make a completely unnecessary re-fit that is costing us several thousand dollars.

Are we mad ?

No, the answer lies in the Finnish system of house ownership. (There follows a very rough idea of how this is)

For tax and other reasons houses are often part of a "company". You buy a house and this gives you the equivalent number of shares in the company. The board of the company is other house owners almost always serving for free and for limited periods. The board then (with votes from the houseowners) decides on actions that need to be taken for the good of the entire house stock.

Positive is that if they decide that all houses are to be painted (for instance) the price per house is way less than you would pay yourself and they organise it all.

Negative is when you - but not many other householders - have already renewed your bathroom and then they decide all bathrooms are to be renewed.

You can of course say that you don't want your bathroom done. You still have to pay your share of all the other bathroom renewals so (we have ca 40 houses) everyone (including you) pays 2.5% less and you are the only people without a new bathroom.

So you pay the full amount and put up with having the builders in for six weeks and no showers in that time.

Luckily my wife made a deal with the neighbour who had her showers in our bathroom during the week while I was at work and will now offer the same thing to my wife, while I have showers available (somewhere) at work.

But still, during those six weeks I will be muttering to myself about how crazy that Finnish system sometimes is and wishing I still had that money to do something more useful with.

Just about anything would be more useful.

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P.S. In April 2006. The latest plan is to do nothing to all houses in 2006 but in 2007 to do something about the window frames. We are lucky as the original idea of the (house) board was to replace all the windows as well (which in the case of a friend of my wife's meant almost 12 months with covered windows and a massive bill) but the consultant they (in typical Finnish style) asked to look at their proposal said this wasn't necessary. Good for him. Not of course that I have a clue how much the whole thing will anyway cost next year but I doubt if it will be as much as that bathroom renewal and at least it's *next* year and a genuine improvement. Meanwhile what we really need is a new kitchen but what we've seen is that the first thing people do when they buy a house is to re-do the kitchen (in one case right after the previous owners had just re-done the kitchen prior to selling it!), so that decision really depends on how long we plan to stay here and enjoy that new kitchen. I'm beginning to wonder if all we need to do is change all the cupboard doors.



4/22/2006 4:27:45 PM (FLE Standard Time, UTC+02:00)  #    Comments [3]   Finland  | 

(This is a re-post from the other blog from 28th August 2005. It's the only other post I've ever made about religion so don't worry that this is going to be the major theme of this blog. It's just that it was rather long and I don't want to waste the time I spent writing it. I didn't hunt it out; I was looking for book reviews for my SharePoint blog when I came across it)

 

I spent the weekend with my wife in Turku (Swedish Åbo) in the South-West of Finland.

Turku was the capital of Finland until Helsinki was founded and is therefore a much older city than Helsinki and, despite the fact that most of the buildings there just as in the rest of Finland used to be wooden buildings which tended to vanish now and again in fires, Turku still has a few old stone-based buildings left.

One of those is the cathedral which was built in the 13th Century and was first used in the year 1300.

Usually when my wife decides that going to church is a suitable thing to do on Sunday morning, I decline and stay in bed, but this time the hotel we were staying in was just down the road and the idea of attending a service in a real cathedral more appealing than our local (and very modern) church, so I went.

It was quite an odd service as while following all the usual rituals the Nordic (Lutheran) churches seem to love they also had three different places where the priests (yes, quite a few) did their things from.

I'd better set the scene. A very long central section (left to right) with pillers separating off the two quite narrow side sections. A very high building as befits a cathedral but with only very small plain glass windows almost at ceiling level to give light. (A lack of windows in walls is quite normal in Nordic climates).

Then from back to front four main sections

a) a small entrance section (5%?)

b) a large section (maybe half the length) of church pews facing of course forward.

c) a smaller section (30%?) with rows of normal chairs facing towards the centre

d) steps leading up to an altar section (15%?)

The pulpit was against a pillar with spiral steps leading up to it located between b) and c) [Location 1]

There was another microphone-equipped location with a reading stand at the end of section c) [Location 2] and finally there must have been some kind of microphone in the altar section. [Location 3]

At exactly 10 o'clock an oldish male priest appeared at Location 2 and welcomed everybody in normal words and said who would be doing what and that he would be giving the sermon. He then walked to the side; and walked back towards the main entrance.

Then about five minutes later the church music started and a small procession consisting of a normally clothed woman carrying a cross; two men in suits and two older priests (the same man and woman) and two younger priests (man and woman) [priests in priestly robes] walked slowly past us down the aisle and took seats behind the microphone at Location 2.

The the older woman priest appeared at Location 3 (OK, I missed how she got there - round the back I guess) and started the service possibly using an attached microphone.

Having been there a while, the action moved for the most part to Location 2 except for the sermon itself which was in the pulpit at Location 1 (causing me to look everywhere but in that direction wondering where the sound was coming from).

Finally near the end all four priests appeared at Location 3 and gave communion to what seemed almost the entire congregation. Despite four priests in action this took quite a while.

Then back to location 2 for the final section.

As you can see quite a performance and I suspect one that has been forced upon them by the size of congregations these days which would make the presumably original set of pews all the way from the back to the altar space completely impracticable as even on good days people would be very sparsely located.

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By "rituals" I probably mean something you don't think I mean. I don't mean the carrying of the cross and the walking in. What I do mean is that services always have a very strict order including when people have to stand; when to sit; what replies to make if the priest says something etc.etc.

I was previously married to a Swede and it's exactly the same in the Swedish Lutheran church - it's a particular Sunday so you get handed a printed paper with what to do and what to say and when to do and say it. Only the hymn choice seems to be possible to vary (and I'm not even sure about that).

What I miss is the way in which a Scottish (I was a choirboy in Scotland so attended a lot of services) Church of Scotland vicar could determine the theme of the sermon and build his extracts from the bible around that theme. In the Lutheran church there doesn't seem room for that sort of freedom and personal initiative and at least in Tapiola where I live and in the Turku cathedral there's not just a single priest/vicar but a collective running the show.

4/22/2006 4:25:24 PM (FLE Standard Time, UTC+02:00)  #    Comments [0]   Finland  | 
 Wednesday, April 19, 2006

It's just been Easter and I've been for the first time to a church service at a place that otherwise seems to be a training centre for bible studies. It just happens to be down the road. It was curious because despite the church service being held in just a fairly large room with overflow in a balcony, they still had the full complement of four (!) priests and an organ/piano player on hand. (One priest to do the service and the other three to aid with communion which as virtually everyone went up would have otherwise lasted for about 40 minutes).

Anyway that reminded me that a piece about religion in Finland was perhaps overdue.

Most people belong either to the Lutheran Church or the Orthodox church with the majority of them in the Lutheran Church as the (Russian) Orthodox church is mainly to the East of the country - i.e. in territory that either once was in Russia (pre 1700s) or bordered on Russia - although there is an impressive Orthodox cathedral in Helsinki. There are both Finnish-speaking Lutheran parishes and Swedish-speaking Lutheran parishes in bilingual areas - I don't know if there is any major different in the church services apart from the language though. (I doubt it).

Finns pay church taxes of ca 1% of brutto salary but can opt out of this at the cost of a few things such as maybe having problems getting married in a church and sometimes having to pay for a burial plot. Many younger people opt out these days (presumably a while after getting married in some cases).

Foreigners on the other hand do not pay church taxes but can opt *in* - I never have. Most probably don't.

In addition, there is a synagogue in Helsinki. The Jewish community arrived in Finland first towards the end of the 19th Century as until then as far as I can remember there were restrictions on their movements within the Russian Empire.

More recently there have been a certain number of Moslems who have immigrated to Finland (and some Finns have converted - usually women) and there is at least one mosque in Finland (probably more).

Then of course there are small numbers of Methodists; Baptists; Jehovah's Witnesses and the like.

However we should not forget a strange sect that is centred around an area in Western Finland (sorry but the name escapes me for the moment) all of whom have masses of children (and I mean 10 or more per family). For some reason they tend to drive very large cars or vans!

OK. That's enough about that. I might later post something about the design of churches (or I might not)

4/19/2006 11:56:29 AM (FLE Standard Time, UTC+02:00)  #    Comments [0]   Finland  | 
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